Post COVID World: The New Abnormal: September 2020
Here are charts that show the steek in the same colour pattern as the swatch, with the stitches numbered underneath, 1 through 5. Chart B has an arrow pointing to the centre stitch - stitch number 3. You are going to cut down the centre of this stitch later (as illustrated by the pink cutting line in chart D). And here they are from the wrong side, with stitches 1 and 2 of the steek, and the chain of the crocheted reinforcement visible behind them. I also like this method because the crocheted chain seems to ‘grab’ and contain the cut edges of the steek, squirrelling them away in a very pleasing fashion. Sitting underneath the steek, you’ll see the back loops of your previously picked up stitches. All very reassuring for the nervous, novice steeker - and hopefully you’ll see what I mean in a moment. If you click on the picture below, you’ll see that I’ve numbered them 1 to 5 - stitch 1 to the right, and stitch 5 to the left, following the right-to-left direction of the knitting.
If you want the label name to appear dead center, click the block that is right in the center. From this, click on systems tools. Needless to say, and despite all this, I skipped all the way home. The odor that comes from the carpet can be removed by making a deodorizer at home naturally. 2) Because you just pick up the reverse loops from the right-side stitches, you end up with two perfectly aligned stockinette flaps that can neatly be knitted together. Pull the working yarn through both loops one more time. The loops of the crocheted reinforcement run through stitch 3, pulling it away from the centre of the steek and connecting it to stitch 2. You can also see the other leg of stitch 3 sitting next to stitch 4. This is where you are now going to work your second reinforcement. Amy and Donna have put in a lot of work to make this blog tour possible, as have all of the featured designers, dyers, and yarn stores. Bring the working yarn round from the right side, and work in stockinette for 3 rows, beginning with a knit row. It also works well as a blanket edging, but because it adds bulk, would probably not work so well elsewhere.
The front edges of a cardigan generally see a lot of strain because of the opening / closing action of buttons and button holes - and this method provides a strong facing as well as a stable edge where the garment needs it most. Here, I’ve used an i-cord bind-off (knit 2; knit 2 together through-the-back-loops) (particularly useful if you are working a button / buttonhole band). First, with the right side of the swatch facing, pick up and knit 3 stitches for every 4 rows, plus an extra 1 stitch each for the top and bottom edges. Bring the working yarn around from the back and, with a third needle, knit one stitch from the front needle together with one stitch from the back needle, covering and containing the steek stitches and the crochet chain. Pull the yarn through again, this time bringing it through both loops, securing your sock yarn to the bound-off edge of the swatch (1 loop on hook).
Above, you can see the wrong side of the swatch where we left it yesterday, with the steek cut, and the crocheted reinforcement holding the cut edge. And just as a running stitch would, these stitches우리카지노
are further securing and holding the cut edge of your steek. A crocheted steek is always worked over an odd number of stitches - here, I’ve used five - and it is generally worked in a stripe or a checkerboard pattern. I like to work the five stitches in a striped sequence of background, contrast, background, contrast, background. In the diagram below, there are two pattern stitches on either side, and five steek stitches in the middle. The regret is obvious: There is no longer a chance for a final, redemptive chapter. In this post, I’m going to show you how to further reinforce (and cover) the cut edges of your steek using a techique that I’ve called “the steek sandwich.” There are many other methods of binding / covering steek edges - but this one works well, I think, for a steeked cardigan. The pink lines show you where you should be picking up your stitches. In this post I’m going to show you my preferred method for reinforcing a steek before cutting.
My favourite method is the crocheted steek. Other methods are available, and I’m definitely not saying that this one is the “best” or the most “valid” or anything - it is simply the method that I like, and that I happen to use. Always make Part One of the new stitch in the same orientation (knitwise or purlwise) as Part Two of the previous stitch. When picking up your stitches, make sure you push your needle all the way through to the back of the work, and draw the yarn through from the wrong side (this may sound obvious, but people do pick up stitches in quite different ways . Done well, there should be no “raw” edges, no loose ends of fraying yarn. Place all of your weave-ends a few stitches to the left or right of your steek - that is - don’t weave in the ends to the back of the steek itself. Keep these stitches live on the needle: don’t break yarn. This is to ensure that all potentially-fraying bits of yarn are sitting well-away from where you are going to cut.